SS12 the line of beauty

"Influential menswear designer Rene Gurskov’s Spring / Summer 2012 collection is a riot of clashing graphic prints and a play on proportion – unsurprising considering that the designer has always favoured the avant-garde.

Born and raised in Copenhagen, Rene began designing and making one-off garments whilst still at school, encouraged by his creative parents. InCircus, a shop and wholesale business soon followed, and although Gurskov now concentrates exclusively on his menswear label, his eclectic aesthetic shows no sign of abating.

For Spring / Summer 2012’s Love Class Sex Money, Gurskov continues to rework tailored and casual classic, taking and reinterpreting an American high school and preppy vibe in a Euro-fashion mix-up that defines modern masculinity.

Baseball jackets with marl jersey sleeves and contrast binding are printed with striking graphic panels. The stylistic elements of varsity jackets appear on a deconstructed tuxedo, complete with monochrome stripes, zip pockets and contrasting lettered appliqué, layered over a black shirt and a striking checkerboard tie. Simple shorts and t-shirts don’t escape the designers attention, the more relaxed shapes emblazoned with the same striking print. A love of daring and exaggerated shapes inspires loose wide-legged, drop crotch styles, cinched in at the ankle, in a celebration of the instantly recognisable Gurskov aesthetic.

Comparisons with Van Beirendonck and Vibskov are inevitable, but Gurskov’s singular vision certainly demands a second look. This is fashion for the brave!"

- Vicki Loomes
PUSH IT magazine

 Rene Gurskov is the definitive designer for menswear not only in his European home of Denmark, but also throughout Asia abroad. Rene’s extensive popularity is rooted in designs that capture refined youth. This is perhaps most exemplary in his Spring/Summer 2012 collection with model William. In a minimal color pallet, the most recent collection draws upon engaging prints and exaggerated proportions that are characterisitc of the designer’s distinct style.
With loose fittings and complex jackets, William’s age is illustrated visually as on the threshold between youth and adulthood. It is within this fleeting border that Rene’s designs excel so vehemently. Although his garments capture adolescence, there is also undeniable urbanity to the pieces. It is found in restrained use of color, uncomplicated trims, and inflated proportions.

The Spring/Summer 2012 collection is more collegiate or proper in style than the designer has pursued in the past. It is best demonstrated in the graphically elaborate letterman jackets of the collection. Asymmetric skirts and torn sweaters of former seasons are exchanged for these new polished pieces. They offer a teasing narrative for the model Williamー adopting conventions of adulthood while retaining youthful aesthetics. For Rene, this has always been the designer’s greatest skillー interesting, mature menswear.

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